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Free Autolite 1100 manuals
1968-69 Autolite 1100
Power Valve At higher speeds, the engine vacuum drops which causes the power valveto open and allow more fuel to flow.
Watch a video about the power valve.
Do not remove the power valve assembly when rebuilding, but it does need to be free to easily move up and down. For sticky power valves spray liberally with silicon spray lubricant and work it up and down until it is free. Worst case is you will have to remove the clean out plug on the top of the carburetor so that you can get at the cylinder for cleaning. You will need a new clean out plug, or patch up the old plug with JB weld (don't get any inside). A surge at high speeds (steady throttle) might indicate a power valve problem. Change the power valve timing to open sooner (at less throttle opening) by adding additional calibrating shims, on power valve rod (see illustration above). If less than 4 shims found on rod, add 4 shims; if more than 4 shims found on rod, add fewer number. Total number of shims on rod must not exceed 8. These shims are not produced and you only want to take the power valve apart as a last resort.
Autolite 1100 Main Jet
This is where the Autolite 1100 main jet resides. Due to the difference in gasoline, the jet size that was originally installed on the 1100 isn't that relevant anymore. Be sure you are using the correct jet size, otherwise you chance ruining your engine. Test your main jet by running your vehicle for 20 minutes at a sustained speed. Pull a spark plug and look at the color. Gray is perfect. White means you are too lean and need to move up one size. Black is too much fuel and you need to move down one size. Do this one size at a time until you get a good gray colored plug. This test is only valid when your engine and electrical system are good condition.
1966 Rough Idle & Poor Fuel Economy Correction.
This condition may be caused by the fuel bowl vent valve being out of adjustment. Check and adjust the vent valve each time the carburetor idle speed adjustment is made.
Buy your Autolite 1100 Main Jets.
Did you lose your check weight?
Use a 3/16" aluminum rod, cut 9/16" long. File the end a bit as pictured. Weight will end up being about 1 gram.
or buy a new check weight.
Watch a video about On The Bench Adjustments
Watch a video about rebuilding the Autolite 1100 carburetor. Part 1 - Teardown
Question I seem to have a problem with my carb that I rebuilt recently. It is a C8PF-D on my 1963,170 cu in Falcon with auto trans. Its a manual choke and has the spark control system and a diaphram on each side. We adjusted the mixture screw till it ran nice and took it for a small drive. Upon returning it would not idle hardly and was running very rough. We adjusted the mixture screw again and it started runnning properly agian. The next drive we took it ran great, but when we arrived home the same rough running and no idle was present agian. It acually died on us instead of idling. My question is if the mixture screw is backing itself off due to vibrations etc.? Could the screw or spring be worn out or could it be the carb hole and threads worn out? I hope you have run across this before and can point me in the right direction. I thought about loctite to hold it, or maybe a new spring and screw.
Answer 1st off don't use anything on the threads. That would probably ruin the carburetor. It does seem the screws are moving from vibration. I would replace the idle mixture screw and spring.
Watch a video about the Autolite 1100 Flooding Troubleshooting
Autolite 1100 & 1101 Technical
- 1100 Choke Rebuild
- Autolite 1100 Adjustments
- Autolite 1100 Operation
- Autolite 1100 Questions & Answers
- Autolite 1100 Check Balls
- 1100 Jet Sizes
- Accelerator Pump
- 1100 Doesn't Idle Well
- Autolite 1100 Tips